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ST ETHELBURGA THE VIRGIN
This is a strange little confection; a rare survival of a medieval. This church in the City of London (most were destroyed in the Great Fire of London in 1666, but this one lies just north of where the fire was stopped), now transformed into the Centre for Reconciliation and Peace. The church’s foundation date is unknown (it’s thought to be around 1180), but it’s first recorded in 1250. It was dedicated to St Ethelburga, a 7th-century abbess of Barking.
It’s the smallest church in the City – 17m long and 9m wide – and was rebuilt in around 1411, while a modest, square bell turret was added in 1775. It’s Grade I listed and has an exquisite exterior, the loveliest building on the street by far, providing quite a contrast in terms of style, size and age with its neighbouring structures. The contrast with the 180m (590ft) tall, ultra-modern ‘Gherkin’ building behind it on St Mary Axe is particularly striking. However, despite surviving the Great Fire and only suffering minor damage during the Second World War’s Blitz, St Ethelburga the Virgin was almost destroyed in 1993 when a huge IRA bomb exploded nearby.
At first it was thought that the building was too badly damaged to save but, thankfully, the delightfully simple exterior was restored in its medieval form. The church was rebuilt to the original plan, but much altered internally, designed as a modern space for meetings and prayer to conform to the needs of its new incarnation as the St Ethelburga’s Centre for Reconciliation and Peace.
The entrance is via a side passage which leads to a pleasant garden with a fountain and flower beds. In the small courtyard next to it is a 16-sided Bedouin tent, designed as a place of meditation and peace for people of all faiths. It’s described as a liminal space, ‘a place beyond and between borders, where unusual things might happen. If this sounds a bit idealistic, it certainly offers a haven of quiet and reflection in a hectic part of London dedicated to Mammon. Regular musical events are held at the church (see website for details).
